The new parts turned up. Cylinder jugs included..

Also found these new/used parts local..

Set clutch plates..

Oil cap seal (cork)

Pillion footrest

Headbolts x5

LH handgrip

Ignition lock flip tab

141t 8mm drive belt

Excited!!

Engine damage, as it came to me, big end disintegrated

  Catastrophic crankpin failed on previous owner but kept riding till it cried enough...

Old vs new. This pin turned out to be wrong for the '81-on flywheels.

Cracked guide as a result of bent valve

Contents of frame mounted spin-on oil filter

Oil tank filter. This shows the spin-on filter became blocked and its' bypass valve opened

The two filters

Rear chain was a large O-ring style and was rubbing inner primary.

Both cylinders were standard but cracked and damaged.

Sportster tank, yeah or nah?

 To see what it would look like, I sat a Sportster tank on the project..

Opinions are shall we say.... divided. What's your thought?

Shovelhead Fat Bob Superglide

 My old Shovelhead I had from mid 80's till about '93. It did 13.1 seconds in the quarter mile.

It had a 44mm Rivera SU carb. For drag racing I fitted solid lifters to the A-grind cam, straight headers and big velocity stack. I have another SU for the current project plus an upswept manifold for better leg room.

Attention to details

I like to clean paint etc away from engine and trans mounting bolts because any paint can migrate out of the joint and result in bolt coming loose. Including both sides of the sump plate are cleaned of paint as pictured.

Here also the mount is cleaned off. Also underneath, around bolt holes as well.

 

Stripping the frame

26Aug2021

Unbolted all the parts from the frame and washed it. Paint looks reasonable, probably powdercoat. 

I carefully removed paint build up on the engine and gearbox mounts. Important because bolts will loosen once paint migrates away.

Stripping all the parts off the frame allows a fresh start. There's many substandard bolts, nuts etc. Am planning to use 8.8 grade bolts as a standard. Often there was no locking nuts, washers or Loctite. I like Nyloc nuts in most situations. They are re-usable a couple of times. Temperature resistant to 121°C.

The rear shocks are shorter than stock but I have some old FXShovel ones. Ultimately I'd like some Progressives or similar because originals are very firmly sprung.

Got the headlight scrubbed up with a replacement H4 glass. Ultimately I'll run LED light. Quartz halogen stays for now.

The project begins

 After storing for nearly 10 years I finally got into the Shovelhead project. I picked this bike up in the condition pictured. Has some FXWG parts early 80's.

Engine is '78. Bottom end was badly damaged when the crankpin roller bearing disintegrated.

Remains of piston and conrod...

Quite a mess to sort out..

 See side pages for in depth look and description of  the build and repair..